Your ship is about to dock and you wonder what’s the best way to spend your time here?  I’ve got you covered. There are two “must-sees” when you get to Funchal, one is the old town, the other is the Tropical Gardens.

We spent Christmas and New Years on Madeira and while it was often cool in the mornings when we got up, the sun quickly warmed the air to a good 15 degrees C (~60F) Down by the ocean and Funchal, day temperatures in December reach 18-20 C (64-68F.) While not hot, you get by in a t-shirt and a light jacket, at least when you’re from a cooler climate like our Swedish family.

I have rarely visited such a beautiful place. We rented a car to get around (the streets are very well-developed and there are loads of tunnels to make the journey to remote places easier on motorists.) Madeira really is as beautiful as its reputation suggests. I could post dozen of pictures to go with this post, and I was hard-pressed to limit myself to just a few, trying desperately to find a representative selection. Sadly, photos from a cell phone still don’t do reality justice.

View from the Botanical garden down toward the city of Funchal and the cruise harbor.

Driving around the island is not something you do in one day. It took us three days to reach all the ‘corners’, and we still haven’t seen it all. And each stretch of coast is different. A volcanic island, the south side (near Funchal) and it’s slopes are more eroded and there are beaches, while the south-west sports some amazing cliffs. The northern coast-line reminded me vaguely of the Napali coast of Kauai or Northern Maui (the famous road to Hana.)

Cruise ships dock in Funchal every day, but the Holidays attract ships for different reasons: the lights. Madeirans are crazy about Christmas lights and they decorate the bridges crossing ravines around Funchal and the electric grid around town is lit up with white lights. The harbor and the streets of the old town are also flooded with lights.

While most European cities put up lights in their cities, Madeirans go above and beyond. It’s truly spectacular to behold, and on New Year’s Eve we counted almost a dozen cruise ships that took position just outside the harbor to give their passengers best access to one of the world’s largest annual fireworks, spanning across the entire Bay of Funchal. If you ever have the chance, don’t miss it. Since we flew in, we had dinner in a nice restaurant and watched the fireworks from ashore. I have a hunch that seeing them from the bay must’ve been even more spectacular.

It’s been almost five months since we returned home, and our five-year old son still speaks of Madeira almost every day. He truly enjoyed the trip. Madeirans are very friendly and they love kids. There is – during the Holidays – a huge carnival down by the harbor, with rides for younger kids and a cute local circus. Many of the light installations are kid friendly, particularly the large Christmas Tree, which is “walk-in” and inspires people to linger.

What say you about these pools to take a bath in? I’m sure they’re perfect during the summer. And even thought the water was cold and the air cool, some people still swam.

Oh my… You could easily gain ten pounds or more on this island. And it’s not just the famous Madeira wine which comes in four varieties, from sweet to dry. You eat really well and the local cuisine, which is based on the Portuguese,, with lots of fish and seafood, potatoes and vegetables, is really tasty. I still fondly remember their garlic flat bread, bola de caco , which you can also have with other condiments, and I can never get enough octopus. Properly done it’s just irresistible. If you’re not big on fish, try lamb or chicken. One of our favorite places to eat was in the old town, Mula Restaurant , serving clams and fries in a dozen different ways, in a modern decor setting with friendly service.

Madeira isn’t Ibiza or Mykonos. There are no gay clubs or bars. Portugal is a Catholic country, so this Portugese island is relatively conservative.  If you’re looking for a gay party-scene, look elsewhere. However, our little family never encountered a single stare while on the island. I guess that is one reason why we liked it so much.

The island is a big destination for tourists from Germany and the U.K., and there are regular flights from all over Europe. The Funchal airport is a tourist destination in its own right. It’s named after Portugal’s most famous soccer player and local son, Cristiano Ronaldo (whose good looks, combined with his talent, have earned him an avid following of gay fans. ) Cristiano Ronaldo International Airport is located on the on the slopes of the island, with a runway built almost completely on pillars. Wind conditions on the island make landing at the airport ‘interesting’ and special training is required for pilots who fly to Funchal. Our trip home was quite an adventure, but that’s a story for another day…

If you choose to visit Madeira for a longer stay, rather than merely visit when your cruise ship docks at Funchal, there are several good options for accommodations. There are really good hotels on the island, tucked away on the slopes around the island, in lush gardens and parks. The hotel district of Funchal, to the west of the old city isn’t really ‘pretty’ but offers all the services, amenities and great shopping opportunities you’d expect from a large destination.

We highly recommend you follow our lead and stay in a bungalow, far away from it all, in the middle of this amazing landscape. We had found this beautiful Quinta (the Portuguese name for farm or homestead), and were welcomed by the smell of freshly baked bread and the sight of fresh vegetables and farm eggs. We found this to a blissful retreat. It was self-catering, which was perfect for us. We shopped for breakfast groceries and would eat lunch and dinner wherever we’d be anyway. Perfect when you travel with kids.

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