Turin Egyptian Museum captivates gay history nerd
Ancient Egypt became my obsession way back in 5th grade. (Fortunately, in remote western South Dakota in the 1950s, teachers, librarians, and parents didn’t seem to wonder why that skinny, curly-haired little boy was avidly eyeing Egyptian art featuring half-naked men.) Last month, my inner fifth-grader felt delighted by one particular day trip on our recent journey to Italy.
My childhood obsession began with me finding a copy of Mika Waltari’s historical novel The Egyptian. I then scrounged in the local library for everything I could find on the subject. I felt entranced by the colossal, heroic statues of the Pharaohs. Obviously, part of my interest connected to my not-yet-acknowledged sexual identity. Depictions of muscular and powerful Egyptian rulers spoke to me in a way I couldn’t yet understand. This childhood fascination reached its pinnacle when I first saw The Ten Commandments , starring Yul Brynner’s piercing eyes and imposing presence.
Egypt remains at the top of my bucket list. Until I can visit the Pyramids and the Sphinx, I satisfy my Egyptophile side with museum visits. Whenever we visit a museum which offers an Egyptian exhibit, I drag Mark there and demand that he take photos of virtually every item.
Torino Egyptian Museum
The Italian Alps city best known to most Americans as the setting for the 2006 Winter Olympics, Torino (Turin) is home to the Museo Egizio (Egyptian Museum ). This museum contains one of the world’s largest collections of Egyptian antiquities.
Immediately upon entering the museum we came across a huge papyrus scroll, over 60 feet long, of the “Book of the Dead.” Hieroglyphics and drawings fill the document in beautiful detail. The exhibit is thoughtfully designed, with the scroll displayed at eye level in excellent lighting. Gazing at the hieroglyphic-covered scroll re-awakened my sense of awe at the accomplishments of this ancient culture.
The next several rooms contain a diverse array of artifacts, among them grave goods such as pottery and furniture. We walked slowly along a display of statues, large and small, buried with the deceased in order to facilitate crossing over to the next life and survival there.
Mummified cats at Torino’s Egyptian Museum. Photo ©Mark den Hartog
Also displayed are mummified pets. As a dog-lover , I feel fascinated by the way exhibits of ancient Egypt reveal how human lives have intertwined with cats and dogs for millennia.
Rich detail and even some color still remain on this casket lid. Photo ©Mark den Hartog
One section of the museum displays beautifully decorated wooden coffins and sarcophagus lids. Still vivid after thousands of years, these pieces demonstrate the importance of the afterlife to the ancient Egyptians. Incredible in detail, execution and workmanship, the labor necessary for their creation is a marvel, and their preservation is remarkable.
As much as I enjoyed seeing these artifacts of a complex ancient civilization, working with the video/audio tour assist wasn’t easy or intuitive. I got better with practice, and the museum staff was uniformly helpful and friendly in offering assistance.
Hall of Kings
The highlight of the exhibit arrived as we turned a corner to find ourselves in the “Hall of the Kings.” We literally stopped in our tracks, mesmerized by majestic statues, some weighing many tons.
Rows of statuary line the walls of this room, with mirrors placed to give viewers 360 degree access. Dramatic lighting highlights the detail of these sculptures. Three pieces in particular made us gasp with amazement.
Ramses II still demands respect after thousands of years. Photo ©Mark den Hartog
Ramses II sits in a magnificent costume, its pleated fabric seems nearly transparent as it clings to his powerful body. The scepter held at his chest clearly demonstrates his royalty. The statue’s sheer size and artistry imbue it with power.
At over 6 feet tall, Dale still looks up to Seti II. Photo ©Mark den Hartog
Seti II stands with one foot forward, in the classic Egyptian pose. While static by modern standards, this a monumental piece that is very affecting. I can easily imagine the statue standing guard to the entrance of the temple of Karnak where it was found, and the effect it would have had on visitors. At about 17 feet tall this statue radiates power.
Thutmose III, strikingly displayed in the Egyptian Museum, Torino, Italy. Photo ©Mark den Hartog
The museum highlight for me was Thutmose III. He sits cloaked in all his royal gear, showing his mastery of both upper and lower Egypt. The beautifully polished stone gives the impression that his face would feel warm to the touch. His huge shoulders manifest masculine strength. This piece possesses not only that strength, but a sense of immediacy, as if sculpted yesterday.
Gazing at these magnificent statues, I experienced complicated emotions. The statues themselves inspire awe. They stirred my memories of myself as a child, and the sense of unlocking something within myself as I gazed upon pictures of ancient Egypt while living on the prairie. My early fascination with antiquities and far-off lands is part of the reason I became who I am today. I am also aware that the ownership of these artworks remains controversial .
Getting there
If you are a museum fan, or an aficionado of ancient Egypt, we’d both heartily recommend a visit to Torino’s Egyptian Museum, well worth the 15 Euro admission, which includes the descriptive audio/video.
We found that half-day provided the perfect amount of time to fully enjoy our visit. A day and night in Torino would make a perfect post-cruise experience if you cruise from Genoa. MSC offers scores of cruises in and out of this interesting city. (We’ll report later on our Med Cruise aboard MSC Meravigli from Genoa .) Travelers without a rental car can easily access Torino via an easy two-hour train trip from Genoa.
Torino and Genoa are two so-called second or third-tier cities which have value and charm but which don’t attract hordes of tourists. Costs are lower, and we often find what feels like a more authentic Italian experience in the smaller less touristy cities.
