Don Ho is long gone, and high-end boutiques have replaced the International Marketplace (once home to the global kitsch we now find at Cost Plus). But don’t write Honolulu off as just another beach-side city of high-rise condos and hotels. A DIY Honolulu shore excursion can introduce you to the best of this port city.
Wander and explore this legendary, gay-friendly, and busy cruise port. We recommend these currently-hip (and some still- hip) options for a fun Honolulu shore excursion that goes beyond the touristy surface
Many Chinese immigrants came to Hawaii on contract to work in sugar cane. The descendants of Chinese and Japanese migrants became business leaders in modern Hawaii. As with other big cities around the world, Honolulu has a historic “Chinatown.”
Today Honlulu’s Chinatown offers a mish-mash of old-Chinese businesses alongside hipster shops. It’s a lot of fun to wander this riverside neighborhood. I highly recommend dim sum (Chinese brunch) at unassuming Good Fortune , which features some of the best dumplings I’ve ever eaten. Follow up with a visit to Roberta Oaks to snag a super-smart, modern version of the aloha shirt. Don’t miss the groovy Owens & Co. for Hawaii-centric gifts
Hula’s Lei Stand has long attracted both gay locals and LGBT tourists. Nothing beats Hula’s mini pitchers of Hawaii’s signature cocktail, the mai tai; just $10 on Sundays and $12 on other happy hours.
A visit to Hula’s makes it clear why this long-established bar maintains its cachet. Situated at the south end of Waikiki Beach, on the 2 nd floor of a hotel, Hula’s boasts an entire open-air wall facing Diamond Head and Kapiolani park. Even with music blaring, the open wall provides a respite from the worst of the noise. I’ve visited many times over the years, and it’s always been busy enough to satisfy me—from a basic evening to Pride weekend. Owner Jack Law is a legend in the Honolulu gay scene, having run gay bars for decades.
As a resident of another Hawaii island (I live in Kona, Big Island, whose attractions I wrote about recently), I can attest that every gay man who visits Hawaii asks me about about this state’s gay beaches. Honolulu’s main gay beach is a section of Waikiki called, appropriately, Queen’s Beach. Queen’s Beach, an easy walk from Hula’s, provides a pleasant place for people-watching, but is not a nude beach. (Hawaii’s best nude, gay-ish beach on Maui is easily Top 10 globally)
Honolulu is a looooooong way from the showrooms of Vegas or Los Angeles, but that doesn’t stop a surprising number of first-rate musicians from making the 2,300-mile flight. Blue Note Hawaii’s dinner-bar-showroom is an excellent, well-run venue with excellent acoustics and a very intimate feel. We recently caught an excellent show there by lesbian musician/comedian Lea DeLaria.
For a taste of things more Hawaiian, an event at the Hawaii Theatre is a good choice. Although they present many non-Hawaii shows, their stage frequently showcases the music and dance of both old and new Hawaii.
Honolulu Museum of Art is 90 years old — a long time in modern Hawaii’s history. This sublime art museum contains outstanding examples of Hawaiian art, alongside European and global offerings. The quality of the art here serves as a reminder that this city’s nearly one million people residents crave good art that goes beyond the archipelago’s range.
Few cities can boast such a distinct mountain as Diamond Head for a backdrop. In spite of its prominence, Diamond Head is not really that big. Its steep trail rising 560 feet in less than a mile provides a great way to burn off the sugary Hawaiian cocktails and teriyaki beef.
If you’d told me we would find our wedding bands in a Hawaiian jewelry store, I’d have called you crazy. But Na Hoku, Hawaii’s oldest and largest jewelry designer/store, had exactly what we were looking for, and a gay-welcoming staff that helped us find it. Like most jewelers, their selection skews toward women, but they also offer thoughtful and tasteful men’s options. They have four locations in Waikiki.
During recent visits to Honolulu we found a couple of delightful and sophisticated (but never snobby) eateries. Egghead Café , featuring Taiwanese/Hawaiian/Global tastes in creative flavor combinations we’ve never tasted anywhere else, has become one of our fave brunch spots anywhere. For something more upscale but highly-local and current, Chef Brian Chan’s team at Scratch Kitchen & Bake Meatery creates hard-to-beat food, enhanced by the restaurant’s too-cool-for-school vibe. A traditionally touristy spot that still wins our hearts every time, Duke’s Waikiki , has an outstanding setting on the sands of the famed-beach, with solid-quality food.
Note: the author visited Honolulu at his own expense.
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